I must have planned over a hundred journeys for travellers to Kashmir, but it had been over three years since I personally experienced what is popularly known as Paradise on Earth, Inspired by my travellers stories and all their beautiful moments captured to cherish forever.
EXPLORING SRINAGAR
I arrived in Srinagar on a sunny winter afternoon. As the locals would tell me later, I brought sunshine with me as it had been raining and snowing in Srinagar for the past week. Soon after arriving there, my memories from my last trip to Kashmir came back to mind. The sight of familiar roads, men clad in phirans and all the Chinar trees, made for a comforting welcome.
Srinagar is one of the most touristy places in India, no doubt. So the idea of finding secrets in this tourist hub got me all excited from the moment I landed. While I kept the journey plan completely open and spontaneous, I was sure of some of the things I definitely wanted to explore in Srinagar – Staying on a houseboat, Exploring the Old parts of town, Finding new cafes and restaurants run by locals and Discovering some charming stays.
ROYALTY ON A HOUSEBOAT
As we arrived at the lake shore, Yusuf, our shikara man greeted us and off we went on his charming boat towards our home for the next three days – a royal houseboat anchored on the banks of Nigeen lake. My view was a serene lake with a backdrop of snow covered peaks, exactly what I had imagined before I came to Kashmir.
The houseboat was beautifully designed with stunning Kashmiri kaalins (carpets) and wooden ceilings, locally referred to as Khatambandh – a simple, yet intricate combination of geometric wood pieces. Everything about the boat was royal – from the decor to the view to the service.
We soon learned that the boat has been home to many a celebrities including Mick Jagger and Michael Jackson and the boat owner proudly showed us a photograph of his grandfather and Jagger on the same boat from the 80’s, all adding to making us feel like true royalty.
Our boat was centrally heated, which was essential considering it was 5 degrees outside and our boat captain named Javed made sure he kept it running at all times. He could tell by our shivers that we were going to need it.
He did everything on the boat from keeping it clean to making sure our meals were served on time and our beds were warmed up with hot water bottles at night. He seemed like a very happy man, completely disconnected from the politics of the valley and happy to be amidst beautiful views and friendly travellers.
His smile was infectious and it did not disappear even for a single moment in the three days we spent on the boat.
URBAN EXPLORATIONS
A beautiful tea room serving Kashmiri kahwa, cakes and snacks.
Another beautiful experience was wandering through the narrow lanes of Old Srinagar. A few locals had warned us about this part of town as it’s most prone to protests, usually on Fridays, but it wasn’t a Friday and we were up for the adventure! My trusted driver Shoukat, who I’ve been working with for the last few years, took us around the Old City, dropping us off to explore the narrow lanes, old houses and crowded markets on our own by foot. He would be waiting to pick us at the end of our walks at pre-decided meeting points, which made us feel really safe.
CHARMING STAYS
Outside sitting area at the homestay
Cozy room
